I Went to Quebec City in Pursuit of the Perfect Poutine. I Found Something Better
I
arrived in Quebec City with one mission in mind: to bury my face in poutine. It is, after all, the birthplace of the famed fries-and-gravy grub that I’ve grown to love as a born-and-raised Canadian. My mouth watered as I envisioned forking a steaming heap of fresh-cut fries, topped with squeaky, half-melted cheese curds, engulfed in a blanket of bubbling brown gravy. I couldn’t wait to get a literal taste of the French-Canadian city through a dish that, in my mind, epitomized its cuisine.
But as I navigated my way through the charming Canadian city in search of the dreamy dish, my poutine pilgrimage led me to a series of unexpected dining discoveries that gave me an even truer taste of the region. From crepes consumed in a casual sugar shack to seafood soaked in maple vinaigrette, savored at a refined restaurant housed in a castle, memorable meals at locally-loved dining destinations took my taste buds on a trip beyond my desired dish, showcasing the best cuisine found in Quebec City.
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Best Bites for Breakfast
Sure, a traditional sugar shack may be built in the middle of a maple grove, but Restaurant La Bûche is the next best thing. Sugar shacks are common in Quebec City, usually set up during the sugaring-off season of early spring (February-March) when sweet maple sap is harvested and boiled down to produce maple syrup. But while sugar sacks are seasonal, at La Bûche, you can experience the same appeal and ambiance all year long.
Inside, the décor is reminiscent of the maple-harvesting huts, with wooden furnishings, long communal tables, and what feels like an endless list of maple-syrup-based dishes on offer. Canada produces 78% of the world’s maple syrup–92% of which is produced in Quebec, so it’s a huge part of the culture here. I came for the crepes (drenched in maple syrup of course), but they serve a mass menu of Quebecois cuisine, including pea soup, pork rinds, meat pie, and of course, poutine–but it was too early in the day for that. And it wouldn’t be a classic cabane à sucre without maple taffy sticks served on snow (yes, even during the summer months).
The Sunday brunch at Champlain Restaurant, located in the castle-like Fairmont Le Château Frontenac, is often referred to as the best in the city, and for good reason. The buffet-style setup is quite possibly the largest (and most luxurious) I’ve ever seen, with several stations spread throughout three rooms, serving everything from beef wellington, mushroom risotto, and eggs benedict, to traditional Quebecois dishes such as tourtière (meat pie), cretons (pork spread), and sugar pie. I didn’t see poutine here, but I knew my time to try it was sure to come soon.
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Lunches I Loved
For a late lunch on my first day, I parried my poutine cravings and opted instead for a lengthy afternoon tea at Place Dufferin. There, I sipped on a cup of creamy Earl Grey and noshed on amuse-bouches, steamy scones, and savory sandwiches served on a gourmet tower. As I eavesdropped on a group of local ladies who chatted quietly in French, I munched on mini mignardises (bite-sized desserts served at the end of a meal) and took in the river views from my table before heading out on the town.
In need of a late afternoon bevy the next day, I popped into Louise Taverne & Bar À Vin, where I sipped on a glass of Quebec-made Les Petits Cailloux red wine, and consumed a housemade charcuterie board of local cheeses and meats, before devouring a plate of fish and chips (flaky Icelandic cod served with crispy French fries–I was almost there, one step closer to poutine).
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Delectable Dinner Destinations
For arguably the best all-around views (you can see the skyline of Old Quebec City, the Grande-Allée, the Plains of Abraham, and sweeping views of the St. Lawrence River from here), I headed to Ciel! Bistro Bar–the only revolving restaurant in Quebec City. The bistro sits perched on the 28th floor of the historic Hotel Le Concorde Québec and offers a range of locally-sourced dishes like the tasty tomato tartlet starter with fresh mozzarella from Quebec-based les Fromagiers de la Table Ronde, and organic chicken ballotine from Les Viandes Biologiques de Charlevoix. And did you even eat a French-inspired meal if you didn’t do a classic crème brûlée for dessert? Equally as good as the food was the 360° views–while you feast you can go “full circle” in an hour and a half.
For fine dining, a dinner at Champlain Restaurant is a must. While the space is more casually set for Sunday brunch, the dining room totally transforms, with a more romantic ambiance in the evenings. The six-course menu is French-inspired and seasonal, and there’s a vegetarian version for those looking to enjoy a meatless meal. If it’s still on offer, the miso-glazed arctic char, drizzled with burnt maple vinaigrette is melt-in-your-mouth good, as is the Quebec-sourced, saffron sauce-soaked halibut dish.
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The Perfect Poutine
Unfortunately, my long list of dining detours had distracted me from my initial intention of finding the perfect poutine, but the trip wasn’t over yet. A guided tour with Concierge du Terroir took me outside of the fortified town of Old Quebec to Île d’Orléans, an island located in the Saint Lawrence River, only 10 minutes by car from the city. We toured the island, visiting a fromagerie, vineyards, and scenic spots, and then it was time. My local guide was ready to introduce me to what was, in his expert opinion (the self-proclaimed poutine enthusiast has the tattoo to prove it), the best poutine in the province.
We pulled up to Chez Mag–an unassuming roadside cantina that is often called out as controversial for the crazy poutine combos (lobster, flying fish egg roe, and onion rings) are just some of the topping choices). I opted for two orders: the basic poutine, and the King Kus Poutine topped with smoked meat, special sauce, sausages, French onions, and green shallots.
The poutine portions were perfectly prodigious, and before I took a bite, I took it all in. The fries were crispy, covered in giant, half-melted cheese curds, and still-steaming velvety gravy, just as I had pictured when my pilgrimage began. I took a bite, breathing through the sides of my mouth to soften the burn of the melty mound, and as I consumed the quintessential Quebec comfort food, I affirmed my guide’s proclamation: this was the best poutine I had ever tried. So good, I bought the shirt.
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